Postcard from Ljubljana

I can’t tell you how excited I was about visiting Slovenia. It’s the friendliest country ever and also one of the most patriotic. I think Ljubljana is my new favourite European city (along with Budapest of course). This postcard from Ljubljana attempts to explain why.

The word ‘Ljubljana’ translates to ‘the beloved’. After spending 3 days in Ljubljana I totally got it.

Ljubljana – a Fairytale City

Ljubljana is different to any European City I’ve ever visited. And that’s not just because no one seems to be able to pronounce its name (Loo-blya-na).

Exactly as you would expect from a fairytale, Ljubljana is charming, fascinating and really really cute. Those are just some of the reasons I love it so much.

The Ljubljanica River and its Bridges

The Ljublanica River runs right through the middle of the city with the Triple Bridge its centre-piece.

On the banks of both sides of the river there are lots of lovely cafe’s, bars and restaurants.

Triple Bridge

As its name suggests, the Triple Bridge (Tromostovje) is a group of 3 bridges.

It was designed by one of Slovenia’s most celebrated architects, Jože Plečnik, who didn’t want to destroy the original traffic bridge but had to enlarge it to make it fit for pedestrians. So, he touched up the original bridge and built two more around it.

Dragon Bridge

The dragon, representing courage and power, is one of Ljubljana’s most iconic symbols. If you keep a look out, you’ll see statues of dragons all over the city.

Dragon Bridge, as its name would suggest, is majestically decorated with 4 fierce and intimidating dragons. It’s one of Ljubljana’s most recognised landmarks and just a few minutes walk from the Triple Bridge.

The origins of the Ljubljana dragon can be traced back to the legend of Jason and the Argonauts who escaped from Greece to Ljubljana and heroically fought and killed a dragon. As a result, Jason is said to have become the first citizen of Ljubljana.

Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana Castle is a small but perfectly formed medieval castle situated at the top of a steep hill overlooking the city. The view of the city, Slovenia’s countryside and far beyond, is nothing short of spectacular.

Although there was plenty to keep me entertained at the castle and surrounding area – climbing the Lookout Tower, watching a puppet show, joining a ‘Time Machine Tour’ and visiting various exhibitions including one on the history of Slovenia – a few hours was enough time to spend there.

Wandering the Streets 

Wandering aimlessly through Ljubljana’s cute cobbled streets is a beautifully charming experience. I don’t think there’s a better way to get a feel for a place.

History, Architecture and Poetry

But, I’m so glad I joined a free walking tour of Ljubljana. It was great, even in the pouring rain, and I learnt so much about Ljubljana’s architecture, history and poetry.

The walking tour started at Prešeren Square in front Franciscan Church (the pink church) and took in sights such as Congress Square, Town Square, Triple Bridge, Dragons Bridge, Ljubljana Market, St Nicholas Cathedral, the Town Hall, the National Library and more.

Our guide was amazing and the best bit about the tour by far, was the mix of fascinating, interesting and funny stories she told us.

Fascinating stories like this:

The Slovenian Independence War lasted 10 days following Slovenia’s declaration of independence on 25 June 1991. The war was fought between the Slovenian Territorial Defence army and the Yugoslav People’s army, and although it was short-lived, it marked the beginning of the Yugoslav Wars, which lasted 10 years. Following its independence, Slovenia was largely untouched by the Yugoslav Wars.

Interesting stories like this:

France Prešeren is Slovenia’s national poet (a bit like what Rabbie Burns is to Scotland I guess). Although unrequited, France Prešeren had one great love. Her name was Julija Primic and she became the muse for his poetry. There is a bronze statue of France Prešeren at one side of Prešeren square which faces a much smaller statue of Julija Primic a few steps away (at No.4 Wolfova ulca, where she lived). Our guide took great delight in telling us that France’s love for Julija will be forever immortalized in their statues.

And funny stories like this:

Directly above the aforementioned statue of France Prešeren, there is another statue of his muse, only in this one she is nude (or at least topless).

Unsurprisingly when the statue was unveiled in 1905, it cause a bit of a stir – not least because the statue is directly across from, and in full view of the main doors of the Pink Church. Our guide told us how the Church Bishop at the time, spent every night for a full year covering the muse. Eventually, a compromise was reached. A tree was planted in the middle of the Square, directly between the Church and the statue to shield church-goers from the view of a statue of a naked lady.  

Here’s a couple of photos I took when walking the streets of Ljubljana.

Metelkova

Like many European Cities, Ljubljana is no stranger to amazing street art.

Metelkova, which reminded me of Copenhagen’s Freetown Christiania, is situated on the outskirts of Ljubljana, not far from the main train station. Previously an army base, it’s now home to illegally occupied buildings including squats, bars, studios and galleries. Metelkova is definitely Ljubljana’s alternative culture capital.

I didn’t plan my visit to Metelkova very well. I rocked up on a Sunday afternoon, when nothing seemed to be open and very few people were about so I didn’t really get to experience Metelkova’s vibe. But it did mean I had plenty of time and space to feast my eyes upon the fantastic street art and funky dilapidated buildings.

Lake Bled

As you probably know, Lake Bled isn’t actually in Ljubljana. But it’s less than an hour’s drive from the city, so frankly, it would have been rude not to go.

What can I say about Lake Bled that hasn’t already been said?

It is an absolutely stunning UNESCO protected lake in the Julian Alps of North West Slovenia. And it’s even prettier in real life than it is in photographs.

Bled Island

In the centre of Lake Bled, there’s a small island called Bled Island. I hopped on board a Pletna (a traditional flat-bottomed-boat) for the ride to Bled Island, but you can hire a rowing boat or kayak and make your own way across if you prefer.

Church of the Assumption

Arriving on Bled Island, I climbed the 99 step staircase to reach The Church of the Assumption. There’s a tradition in Slovenia that a groom should carry his bride-to-be up all of the 99 steps in order to get married in the Church.

I paid the 6 Euro fee to enter the Church, climb the Bell Tower and ring the Church Bell (apparently if you make a wish while ringing the bell your wish will come true). You have to pull the rope to ring the bell a couple of times and listen carefully to hear the chimes. My visit to Bled was off season so there were no queues and very few people, but I can imagine that in the height of summer the church would be really busy and the line to ring the ‘wishing bell’ would be long. Whilst it was fun, and a bit of a novelty, I don’t think I’d be inclined to spend any longer than 10 minutes waiting in line.

Bled Castle

The oldest castle in Slovenia, Bled Castle is the most captivating looking castle I’ve ever see.

It’s also an interesting place to explore. There was more than enough to keep me occupied for the couple of hours I was there, but without doubt, the absolute highlight of my trip to Lake Bled was the incredible view of Bled Island from the 130 metre high hill on which the castle sits.

I have no words that can accurately describe how insanely beautiful this place is, so here’s another photo instead.

Predjama Castle (Castle in the Rock)

According to the Guinness World Records, Predjama Castle is the largest cave castle in the world. Dating back to the 11th century, it’s built into a huge,123 metre high cliff. The exterior is a work of art, and once inside, the contrast between the castle and the caves and the way they intertwine is truly magnificent, if a little bit creepy. (I thought it was creepy before I found out that the castle is apparently haunted.)

Beneath the castle, Lovka Stream runs into a couple of underground cave systems. Visitors can explore some of these caves as part of small organised groups. I was disappointed that I didn’t get to explore the underground caves, but unfortunately time wasn’t on my side.

There’s so much more I could say about Ljubljana, and Slovenia in general (look out for future posts). It’s fair to say that in 3 days I fell completely in love with Ljubljana, Slovenia and its people.

In summary, if Slovenia isn’t on your bucket list, it should be.

Have you been to Ljubljana? What’s your favourite place in Slovenia?

For more, check out my interrailing adventure video highlights.